Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Which type is better, Aluminum Lifts or Galvanized Lifts?
A: Aluminum lifts are stronger and longer lasting than steel. The primary drawback to aluminum used to be the cost. As structural aluminum became more common, the cost of aluminum lifts closely approached the price of galvanized. Today there is little cost difference.
Q: Why don't boat lift manufacturers use Stainless Steel Drive Shafts?
A: In the days before cable winders, the the cable would wind directly to the drive shaft. The stainless cable eroded the galvanizing, and the shaft rusted. Cable winders eliminated this issue. Also, in a twisting situation (which is how the shafts are used), the stainless is far too week. Our structural engenders will not certify a boat lift using a stainless steel drive shaft. They sound good but they are not safe. IMM guarantees it's drive shafts for as long as you own the lift. This is one reason we choose IMM lifts.
Q: What type of drive shaft bearings are best:
A: Bronze and Aluminum demand frequent maintenance. Nylatron is a very high tech, self-lubricating material. IMM has used this material for 17 years, and has never had a bearing wear out. IMM warranties the Nylatron for as long as you own the lift. During the break in period, it may be necessary to lightly lubricate the bushings. There is a provision for this.
Q: Should my aluminum lift be bolted or welded together?
A: Unfortunately, most aluminum lifts are built like galvanized lifts. Aluminum is a wonderful material, but the production methods used in its manufacture is different than galvanized. Structural aluminum is heat treated to give it strength, which it needs to hold together and do its job. When the material is welded, the area around the weld is severely weakened. For this reason there should NEVER be welds that are supporting the heavy loads inherent in boat lifts. These points of stress should be mechanically fastened.
Q: Is a chain drive stronger than a belt drive:
A: The chain is the actual "final drive". This means that the chain is holding the weight of the boat. If the chain breaks, or worse, jumps off, the boat will fall. With a belt driven system, the belt is simply the drive mechanism that turns a gear shaft. If the belt fails, the lift will be inoperable. Your boat, on the other hand, will be absolutely safe, and will NOT fall.
Q: I have very shallow water, how can I prevent my cables from tangling if the cradle goes to the bottom?
A: This is probably the number one issue faced by all boat lift manufacturers AND owners. IMM offers a product "Slack Attacker" that is one of the most revolutionary products on the market for shallow water boat lifts. This patented device solves the problem. It's approach is simple yet effective.
Q: Will the cradles on an aluminum lift float?
A: On many lifts that use materials that are too light, or bunks that are made of a buoyant wood, an aluminum cradle will float, causing many, many problems. IMM's Perma-Bunk 2000 prevents any cradle-float.
Q: Do the electric motors need to be covered?
A: In some direct gear drives the motor is not covered. If this is a Stainless Steel Washdown Duty motor this is OK. Make sure it is a WASHDOWN DUTY. No all Stainless Steel's are washdown. If not, it MUST be covered. Being sealed is not enough.
Q: Are enclosed top beams better than open driveshafts?
A: Cables are not visible with an enclosed top beam. If there is a problem with the cables or a tangle there could be a alot of damage before you notice the problem. Also, saltwater is drawn into the beam every time the boat lift is raised. Salt water is highly-corosive. With an open shaft, either rinsing, or rain will eliminate this problem. Another issue is nesting birds or rodents making their home in the enclosure.